5 steps to remove ic chips from the motherbaord
1. Heat surface mount resistors, transistors, diodes, with a miniture hot air blower or heat gun for 60 seconds.
How do you test a transistor using cathode ray oscilloscope?
It's possible to test the transistor using Cathode Ray Oscilloscope (CRO)
CRO provides a function called "Component Testing". Just connect the transistor terminals between two pins provided by this function and you can observe the patterns on the CRO screen. Normally, in case of transistor, The operation is divided in few parts.
01. Observe the pattern for CB configuration.
Same procedure should continue for CE & BE configuration so as to test the transistor.
LAPTOP MOTHERBOARD POWER ON DETAIL
V2000/m200/dv1000 power on steps detail signals with diagram and step explanation
3VPCU, 5VPCU , +5V, +3V 5VSUS, 3V SUS, NBSWON#, DNBSWON# SUSC# SUSB#, SUSON, MAINON, VRON S5_ON, HWPG, POWERGOOD, VCCP, VCORE SMDDR_VTERM, PWROK, RSMRST, PCIRST,CPUINIT,CPUPG, IMVPOK, CLK_EN# CPURST,
HP, CQ40 series power on boot process signals and chip detail
AD-OFF DCBATOUT TO_SYS. ACAVIN PWR_S5_EN 5V-PWR 3DE-PWR PWR-S5-EN 5V-PWR 3D3-PWR +3 VALW, +5 VALW +3 VALW, +5 VALW +3 VALW RSMRST-SB #BT-TH # PWR_BTN PWBTN-SB PM-SLP-S3 # PM_SLP-S4 ALL-PWRGD VR ON PM-PWPOK CPU PG PLT-RST
Dell laptop d600 boot process main signals detail
+ RTC_PWR5V & + RTC_PWR3_3V, + RTCSRC, (PWR_SRC) DCIN +, + DC_IN, SDC_IN +, ACAV_IN (+5 VALW & +3 VALW) LIVE_ON_BATT . power good VCC1_PWROK
+5 VSUS & +3 VSUS +2 _5VSUS & +1 _5VSUS PWRSW_SIO # SUS_ON +3 VSRC SUSPWROK_5V RUN_ON +5 VRUN, +3 VRUN, +1 _8VRUN, +1 _5V RUN, M7_MEM, M7_CORE, M7_1.8V SMDDR_VTERM 1.25V RUNPWROK CPU VTT VCC1_2_MCH RESET_OUT # VCORE_PWRGOOD, 1715PWROK, IMVP_PWRGD CPUPWRGD SLP_S1 # IMVP_PWRGD VTT_PWRGD # DELAY_IMVP_PWRGD
IBM T40 POWER BOOT DETAIL SIGNALS
VREGIN16, VINT16 VCC3SW , VCC5M , VCC3M , VCC1R2M VCC1R8M, MPWRGD, VCC3B, VCCCPUCORE for CPU, VBAT, DC ?IN, VCC5B, VCC3A, VCC3B, VCC3P, VCC1R8A, VCC1R8B, VCC1R2A, VCC1R2B, VCC2R5A, VCCVIDEOCORE, VCCCPUIO, VCCCPUCORE
Component Level Motherboard Repair (Not replacement)
1) How do you diagnose the exact component failure?
2) Is it usually a bad capacitor?
3) How do you perform the component level repair?
Answers to your questions
We also measure all sort of signals, such as PCIRST, CPURST, CLK. We measure the resistances of each AD line from north bridge to CPU/RAM.
We watch the current changing patterns to get rough idea where is the problem.
There are some simple steps to follow when checking a notbook motherboard:
1. make sure main system powers are ready, that is 3V and 5V.
How to repair?
I have seen the video in youTub teach people how to fix VGA problem, and I guess you only have 30% chance if you follow it. My BGA rework station tutorial can perform up to 95% successful rate.
Troubleshooting Dead HP G6000 Motherboard
Things that are likely worth solving:
Bad capacitors. Decently common and the parts only cost a few cents.
Most of the ICs on board... 4-20 pin jobbies such as the power ic do fail and are swappable for less than a buck or so
Blown fuses. Easy to diagnose easy to replace. This is a definite.
Any and all damaged jacks. Power and audio being the most commonly broken.
Resistors. easy to find easy to replace. cost is in pennies
Transistors and diodes can be more problematic to diagnose and fix but they too are cheap and swappable with just a soldering iron.
Obviously you can swap cpus so you should be able to diagnose that as well.
Case Study 1
"Machine: HP G6000(same mainboard as V6000)
Problem: Laptop will not power up, completely dead
Discription: The machine has been water damaged. It does not have system standby power, which are 3V and 5V.
Finding The Fault:
Check Max8724(the battery charging chip) first, because to make system has standby power this chip must work correctly. This is a 28 pin chip, we only need to test 1, 2, 4, 8, 10, 11 pin. They are VIN(main power for chip), LDO(provide 3.3V for chip itself in order to set REF voltage, also provide signal to drive 2 MOS to charge battery), REF(set reference voltage of the chip), SHDN#(enable/disable chip, a switch), ACIN(indicate the power supply has plugged in), ACOK#(power adaptor ok with mainboard).
Everything ok except 10 pin, ACIN is 0V. This is incorrect, mainboard doesn?t detect there is an adaptor! Trace it backward and find it is very simple ? mainboard use 2 resistors to pull the input voltage(19V, directly from dc socket) down to about 4V, so test the first resistor and find it opened. Change it and 3V/5V power come up and mainboard be able to switch on.
Then the trouble start when I try to charge the battery. The charging current never go beyond 0.15A and after 10 seconds the charging light start to flashing. Also can?t switch on from battery. First, change Max8724, still same problem. Next check all the resistors around max8724 and change it if it has any sign of watering, still no good. Then change KB3926(EC/KBC, chip monitors the statue of battery), still same.
Decide to check MBDATA and MBCLCK, 2 signals that send battery information from battery to KB3926 before I give up. I find the MBDATA is short!
Finally, find there are 2 pins stick together on CN10(the connector of multimedia switch board). Fix it and it start to charging battery. Switch on with power adaptor, ok. Remove the power adaptor once switch on, battery keep the mainboard running, ok. But still can?t switch on from battery once remove the power adaptor. Think, think, do I miss something here or there? Oh, the CMOS battery not installed, put the CMOS battery back and everything work perfectly. The battery part of troubleshooting takes me about 3 hours.
Remember, system may not run if you don?t have CMOS battery or CMOS battery is low for some AMD cpu mainboard.
Case Study 2
"Machine: Acer 4600
Problem: Laptop will not power up
Discription: The machine wont turn on when customer bring in.
1. plug in our power supply and it shows short circuit on board, the current jump to the 5A, which is the limit of my power supply.
2. take off the mobo, drop the voltge of power supply to 5v, limit current to about 1A, plug in again and find a mos very hot.
3. replace this mos, now the short circuit fixed.
4. turn on, the current goes up to 0.3A and stopped, it should go up to 1A during booting.
5. touch cpu, not hot, no power to cpu.
6. check the cpu pwm, which is max1907a. all conditions to make it work are present, but still no power output. the ref voltege is 0. so most likely this chip gone.
7. I replace the chip and everything work fine.
For lots of unknow brand laptops, sometimes very hard to find drivers. I don't know how many people know there is a trick to install a similar driver.Machine: TPG (can't see the model clearly)
Could not find the driver, TPG web site only point to Asus web site and doesn't give which model it clone from Asus. We can't find vga driver.
We use Everest to check what vga chip it use and find it is ATI IGP 320M U1. Download few from different web sites, all of them just give a message said could not find hardware it supports.
Finally, download a driver from fujitsu web site for the lifebook S2020(same vga chip and south bridge chip as TPG's). But still give the error message said no support hardware find.
Every device has a Device Instance ID, and windows will compare this ID with driver's INF. It will install the driver if it find a match ID and match SubSys, otherwise will give an error message.
We check the driver for S2020, find the string "PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4336&SUBSYS_118110CF" in one of the INF file. We also find the Device ID on our machine is "PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4336&SUBSYS_2029161F&REV_00". Device ID is matched but just into different sub system. Replace the string in S2020's INF with our Device ID string, driver is installed correctly and no error message.
Dell inspiron 6400 with a power problem.
Laptop can't run nor charge the battery on adapter, but on battery it's run.
This is typical protection circuit problem. check the 2 mosfet just after power socket
Charging problemC700's charging chip is 39A126, DV6000/9000's charging chip is max8724 or max8725. Check the working conditions of those chips. such as VIN, ACIN, ACOK, LDO, REF, SHDN.
Charging problem is second hardest problem on notebook repairing, the first one is signal level ? everything looks ok but just no display.
usb no powerThe following solution only apply that usb no power, if the usb device get power but can't be detected or can't be recognised by system, that indicates south bridge problem.
To get power for usb is very simple. use multimeter to find out which usb pin is ground, the pin on the other side will be the power. for example say pin 4 is ground so pin 1 will be the power.
connect power pin to 5v you can find on motherboard, usually a big inductor(becareful, when you measure the voltage, put battery in as well, some mobo the inductor for charging circut give you 5v if you don't put battery in but jump to battery voltage once you put in the battery, such high voltage will burn your usb devices). connect it on the different side of inductor that mosfet connect to(or should I say power out side?) so you can get smooth waveform, don't connect to the same side of mosfet(this is power in side).
Dark image on the screen , just very hard to see, a torch will show it is there though).When we fix such problem, usually we do the following:
1. find an known good lamp or screen, plug into inverter see if its light up. if it lights up so you need to change your screen's lump.
2. if it not light up, do following:
a. check power(either 5V or 19V), enable signal(3V), brightness control(3V) are presented. (all testing by done with adaptor plug in).
b. if all those presented, then change inverter otherwise
c. need to find out which wire is power, which is enable, which is brightness people find hard in here because they don't know how to find out which is which.
Power always connect to fuse (also need to check fuse is ok). for the other two, you need to check inverter pwm's datasheet to make decision. Just start from pwm's EN and Brightness pin, trace back to connector. After you find out, make sure all these wires has normal resistance to ground, otherwise you have to cut off the wire that abnormal. Then try to find exact voltage from mobo and connect to inverter, by doing this you are not really fix the problem but bypass it. It is a easy to work around it rather than fix problem.
Q. The first step to troubleshooting is monitor the current change. usually, current reading can tell what was wrong and quite accurate. You frequently mention monitoring the current change to pinpoint the area of failure. Can you please describe this troubleshooting technique in more detail with some guidelines and numbers to look for?
A. To understand why current changing, you may need to know the basic powering states of notebook ? which is called ACPI standard ? S0 to S5.
S0 is full runing state, S5 is state that after you swith off laptop but with either power or battery presented. out off topic here, the S5 is the state after you shut down computer not the state you just plug in the power. Power button is for wake up computer from S5 and enter into S3. In ACPI standard, to switch on computers you need a signal "RSMRST". It explains why some laptops auto switch on if there is no CMOS battery, because its EC send RSMRST when power plug in. But you need push power button to switch on laptop if there is CMOS battery, because laptop remembers it is in S5 state.
Powering up a laptop can be divided into few parts, first check south bridge's gpio defination, check communcation between bios and south bridge, check system ram, power cpu, power up vga. so you can see the current goes up and down. step by step it reaches to full power.
Current changing monitor is just give you rough idea, sometimes not so accurate. let's see 2 examples:
1. a hp 530, power up but stay on 0.68A. it should go down a bit after 0.68A, and up again. The faulty mobo current change is 0.02 ? 0.3 -0.68. After we see this current, we know it may have problem on SB or may be on NB but most likely is SB.
I check LPC 0 to LPC 3, no signal find. it may have problem on SB or BIOS. So I flash the BIOS before I do anything on SB. It was fixed after I reflash BIOS.
2. DV9000. Normal mobo: 0.01 ? 0.3 -0.9 ? 1.1 ? 0.9 ? 1.2 -1.45 then display. we find faulty mobo 0.01-0.3-0.9-1.1-0.9, by checking DMI Link we find there is one or two pulses. So we have an idea that it already pass memory checking, the next stage is VGA checking and active VGA output. In here, if it stop in 1.1 it most likely NB or SB problem, but if it stop in 0.9 or after, it may be the problem of VGA.
Current changing gives you an idea about where is the fault but not 100% accurate. People ask me what fault by just give me the current reading and I always say you need to give me the changing states, how many jumps that current made.
Machine will run on charger with battery removed instal the battery and it will only run on the battery not the chargerLooks like discharging has problem. When discharging mosfet has problem, or the Gate voltage not correct, the 18V of main power will directly go to battery.
The current will be very large when you have short discharging mosfet, if you plug charger in and have battery installed at sametime. Laptop will detect this abnormal current and refuse to start up. Remove either one, machine can start up.
How to diagnose motherboards on a component level. What tools needed?
I find it is very hard to explain this. actually, it is very simple and can be described in two words: current and singal. read the current change during booting tells you where the machine stopped. check the singals on the different part of motherboard tells what is wrong or what is missing.
Tools are: smd rework station, bga rework station, power supply has current meter. all the rest tools you can find in any radio tv repair shop, of course all the datasheets for the components, especially the schematic diagram, you will find it much difficult without it.
What are common faults on mainboards? Do certain components fail?
Different maker/model has different common fault. Toshiba S1 is vga chip, and can't be repaired(well, almost can't be repaired because the pcb quality is not very good so successful rate is very
The question always comes up, "Can I hook up my laptop hard drive to my desktop?" The answer is yes with the proper adapter. You will need a 44 pin to 40 pin IDE adapter.
The connector adaptor converts a laptop HDD 2.5 inch connector to a 3.5 inch HDD connector as used in the IDE bus system. It is powered by a 5V Molex plug.
This allows the use of a laptop hard drive with a 44 pin connector in a standard tower or desktop PC on the 40 pin IDE cable. You will have to set the laptop hard drive as a Master or Slave depending on your Desktop configuration.
This adaptor will not work for plugging a standard IDE type hard drive into a laptop drive controller.
NOTE: It's important to properly connect both ends of the adapter to ensure functionality and prevent the possibility of shorts. On the IDE interface end, the red wire on the ribbon represents pin 1. On the HDD, pin 1 should be labelled by the drive's manufacturer. Pin 1 on the adapter is shown in the this graphic.
Ever had to wait for several minutes for your laptop to boot up?
Wish you can fix it in a few seconds, well maybe this would be helpful for you.
It can be really irritating when your laptop/netbook is slow or has choppy sound, or a noisy harddisk, or touchpad problems. There is a way to fix it easily and very safely, the best part is you dont have to spend a cent or install any software.
This simple fix is called a power drain.
It will release all the excess power that gets stored in the laptop which may have caused your computer?s hardware to malfunction. Simple hardware problems caused by excessive power supply can be solved by performing a power drain.
Just follow these steps:
Tips to increase the battery life:
This can be helpful for a Desktop computer too:
For desktop computers,take a note of the cords and where they plug into. If you dont know about this ask an experienced friend to try this.
Unplug all the cords from behind the cpu, press & hold the power button for 30 seconds. Replug all the cords and turn on the computer.
Time: About 20 minutes (followed by overnight drying)
Materials: Towel, screwdriver, compressed air -- and hope
Why is it that when there's a glass of water or coffee to be spilled, a notebook is generally there? Call it Murphy's Law of Mobility, but I've seen several notebooks die because of spills.
If you've spilled a soda or a caramel macchiato into your notebook, you're probably out of luck. Anything with sugar is death -- once it dries it's there forever, eating away at your system's components. At that point, you could send it to a professional to use deionized water and a lot of patience, which can be a $1,000 job and take weeks, but you're probably better off just pulling out the hard drive and buying a new machine.
If it's just water or non-sugared coffee that you've spilled, your chances of saving it are much better. Although it's important to act quickly, the worst thing you can do to a wet system is start it up right away to see if it works. If there's water inside, you run the risk of creating an electrical short and potentially causing permanent damage. The thing to do is to calm down and dry out the system before hitting the power button.
Quickly unplug the machine and take out all of the easy-to-remove components like the battery, CD drive, hard drive and keyboard, and set them aside to dry separately. (You'll need a screwdriver to remove some of these parts; consult your manual for instructions.)
Carefully tilt the laptop on its side to help the water drain out.
Tilt the system on its side to help drain the water out. Do yourself a favor and put a towel underneath. Try to keep the liquid away from the display as you're removing parts and draining the system.
Gently shake the system to get liquid out of the many nooks and crannies inside; the air vents generally act as water canals. Next, use a can of compressed air to blow the inside of the case as dry as possible.
Use compressed air to help dry the insides.
It's a good idea to let the machine sit near a heating or cooling air vent overnight -- or longer if you can stand the suspense -- to fully dry it out.
When you're sure the system has dried out, put it back together, start it up and hope for the best. If it starts OK, let it run for a while to remove any remaining condensation or droplets. If it doesn't start up, it's time to consider getting a new machine.
Time: 5 minutes
Materials: Toothpaste, cloth, window cleaner
Replacing a screen and its inverter electronics is a tough job that can cost several hundred dollars and take hours. For an old system, it's likely not worth it. But if the display is only slightly scratched, it's a no-brainer to fix it.
After a trip to the beach on a windy day last summer, I noticed a bunch of small scratches and one big one on the display of my Intel Classmate PC netbook. The scratches annoyingly obstructed the screen's image.
My netbook had one big scratch and several small ones.
These types of scratches can be smoothed out with a dab of toothpaste (and I do mean toothpaste -- the gel varieties usually don't have the necessary abrasives) and a little elbow grease.
Gently rub toothpaste into the scratches.
Rub the toothpaste between your thumb and forefinger and it should feel slightly sandy and gritty. It's these mild abrasives that will fix the screen's problem.
Gently rub the toothpaste in a circular motion over the scratches for a few seconds (not too hard -- you could rub off the screen's surface coating).
Then wipe the screen clean with a soft cloth.
While the large scratch isn't gone completely, the smaller ones are.
Finish up by cleaning the screen with a non-ammonia-based window cleaner. My favorite is Sprayway, but there are grocery store shelves filled with these products. Look it over and if the scratches aren't gone, repeat the process.
This strategy isn't perfect. With my netbook, the toothpaste only partially removed the big scratch, but it did get rid of all the minor scratches. Plus my netbook now has a minty fresh aroma.
There is a common Windows bug that does not recognize a newly installed battery. To fix this problem, RIGHT click on My Computer, then click on Properties. Click on the Hardware tab, then click on Device Manager. Click the plus sign next to Batteries and delete the Microsoft AC Adapter and Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery items. Shut down the system. Unplug it for a minute, then plug it back in and reboot. When Windows starts, it will identify the battery and start charging it fully. If this does not fix the problem, you probably have a defective battery or a battery with incompatible firmware.
There are two schools of thought on this. First, charge the battery to full for about 8 hours before you use it, then discharge it fully. Do this about three times. Second, use the battery in its current state and drain fully. Then recharge for 8 hours and discharge fully again. Do this about three times
When interconnecting batteries (cells), they must be identical in voltage and amp rating!
Batteries may be connected in series. the positive terminal of the first battery is connected to the negative terminal of the second battery; the positive terminal of the second is connected to the negative of the third, and so on. the voltage of the assembled battery is the sum of the individual batteries. The batteries are connected: + to - to + to - to + to -, etc. The capacity of the battery is unchanged.
Batteries may also be connected in parallel. The positive terminal of the first battery is connected to the positive terminal of the second battery, the positive terminal of the second is connected to the positive of the third; the negative terminal of the first battery is connected to the negative terminal of the second battery, the negative terminal of the second is connected to the negative of the third and so on. The batteries are connected: + to + to + and - to - to -. In this configuration, the capacity is the sum of the individual batteries and voltage is unchanged.
For example, (5) 6V 10AH batteries connected in series produces a battery array that is 30 Volts and 10AH. Connecting the batteries in parallel produces a battery array that is 6 Volts and 50AH. Ordinary auto batteries are designed in the same fashion. Six 2-volt cells are arranged in series to produce a 12v battery. Many Ni-Cd batteries are arranged in the
Basic description of the design:
18volts + ground comes into the dc power jack - 2 wires carry the current about 4 inches and a plastic connector splits it into 2 18volt wires and 2 ground wires - they attach to the motherboard (where I have all good connections).
Ac input has somehow fused with the battery input - and in turn disconnected itself so that the laptop believes that both the battery - and the ac input are BOTH battery.
1 When a fully charged battery is installed laptop works perfectly
2 When battery is removed ? and ac cord plugged in ? laptop gives fast blinking lightening bolt (warning that the battery is too weak to be used ) ? of course the battery is NOT INSTALLED ? so this blink error should not be happening.
Ac power adapter. = Good
Battery = Good
Correct voltage reaching the motherboard through the cables.
The laptop seems to think that a weak battery is attached (when NO battery is attached and the ac adaptor is plugged in)
Solution: Change the capacitor chip on the motherboard that is causing the problem.
There are SIX terminals on the battery; with the battery removed the power throughput on each motherboard battery connection should change.
Battery removed on a good laptop=
2: +3.31 volts
4: +5.0 volts
5: +5.0 volts
6: +1.44 volts
Battery removed on DAMAGED laptop=
2: +.77 to +.89 constantly changing voltage
4: +1.2 to 1.30 constantly changing voltage
5: +1.15 to 1.30 constantly changing voltage
6: +4 to +7 constantly changing volts
It is obvious to me that with varying power outputs like this - all at such low numbers I can not expect this laptop to start up - So one of the parts between the ac input and where the battery
input goes must have gone bad - because with the battery installed the voltages go back to normal; and of course the battery will never charge...
Battery Installed on a good laptop (same readings on damaged laptop)
2: +2.0 volts
4: +5.0 volts
5: +5.0 volts
6: +16.0 volts (probably changes slightly depending on the strength of the battery)
Because of the humidity and non-insulated environment. All the batteries will be discharged naturally. It depends on the quality and newness grade. It is normal to reduce 1% power in 3-4 days.
1). New batteries are shipped in a discharged condition and must be charged before use. We generally recommend an overnight charge (approximately twelve hours). Refer to the user's manual for charging instructions. Rechargeable batteries should be cycled - fully charged and then fully discharged two to four times initially to allow them to reach their full capacity. (Note: it is normal for a battery to become warm to the touch during charging and discharging).
2). New batteries are hard for the device to charge; they have never been fully charged and are therefore "unformed". Sometimes the device's charger will stop charging a new battery before it is fully charged. If this happens, remove the battery from the device and then reinsert it. The charge cycle should begin again. This may happen several times during the first battery charge. Don't worry; it's perfectly normal.
2. Do not drop, hit or otherwise abuse the batery as this may result in the exposure of the cell contents, which are corrosive.
3. Do not expose the battery to moisture or rain.
4. Keep battery away from fire or other sources of extreme heat. Do not incinerate. Exposure of battery to extreme heat may result in an explosion.
2. Fully discharge and then fully charge the battery every two to three weeks for battery conditions.
3. Run the device under the battery's power until it shuts down or until you get a low battery warning. Then recharge the battery as instructed in the user's manual.
4. Remove from the device and stored in a cool, dry, clean place if the battery will not be in use for a month or longer.
5. Recharge the battery after a storage period.
6. Ensure maximum performance of the battery by optimizing the device's power management features. Refer to the manual for further instructions.
A DC jack is a component used in many electronic devices that allows a
steady power source to be plugged in. Though electronics require direct current (DC) power, alternating currentAC) is the type of electricity supplied to and
available in household wall sockets, mainly because of its ability to be delivered over long distances without losing strength. Therefore with most electronics, an AC adapterconnected to a
DC jack is necessary to supply power in a usable way.
Unlike AC plugs, which are uniform and regulated on a country-by-country basis, DCjacks and plugs, which are technically referred to as coaxial power connectors, are generally not standardized. Many electronics manufacturershave their own proprietary AC adapters, also known as power bricks, which employ unique sizes of DC jacks. Currently Germany and Japan are the only countries that have attempted to issue standards for DC jack sizes. Different AC adapters and DC jacks can vary in many ways, ranging from voltage to physical diameter.
Fixing a dc power jack on your (or someone else's) laptop can be difficult. If you are not sure what you are up against is a sure sign that you may not be able to reassemble the laptop. However with the proper steps, repairing, or replacing a laptop dc jack can be accomplished.
0) As step zero, it is important to make sure that you identify a bad dc jack. If a laptop isn't charging when it's plugged in combined with a very loose power jack port usually indicates you have a bad dc jack. We have also seen dc jacks that are just fine, however when looked inside, you see it has been physically destroyed on the rear end of the jack itself. Each case is mostly different, but you will run across 3 possible scenarios.
a) The dc jack has cold solders and it just needs to be resoldered (the most common).
b) The dc jack has been broken in unseen areas of the jack itself (common diagnosis is the wiggling of the jack with the adapter).
c) There is nothing wrong with the dc jack and it's an issue with something else on board (uncommon, but it happens).
1) Do your research.
So you conclude that you have a bad jack. Find out what style or sort of power jack you need for the laptop. You don't need to open the laptop to find out what type of power jack you need. Go to the internet and search for model laptop + dc jack. For example, if you have a Toshiba Satellite, search the internet for ?Toshiba Satellite dc jack?. You will be greeted with some useful results. Not only will it give you results for dc jacks but they look like in general. It would not be beneficial if you ordered a random dc jack that doesn't even fit inside the notebook.
At this time, it would be best to check to see if the laptop powers on. If here is enough battery life left, turn it on to ensure that the laptop works fine. It may be essential after reassembly which we will explain later
Some models like Toshiba Satellites will have a dc jack with different pin sizes. The pin in the middle of the jack will be a different gauge or different size. It?s crucial that you check to ensure that you get the correct jack size. Failure to do so will ensure you some problems when you plug in your Power adapter (ie: it won't fit). When you receive your dc jack in the mail, fit it on the power adapter that goes the notebook to make sure that you received the right dc jack.
2) Prepare and gather the tools you need. Make sure you have the right tools for the job.
- Screw Drivers (different sizes and shapes)
- Pen or Pencil
- Packaging Tape
- Soldering Iron (and soldering essentials)
- Volt meter (to check continuity)
- Basic electronics and soldering knowledge
Make sure you have different types of phillips screw drivers, flat headed screw drivers, hex screw drivers, torque screw drivers, etc. If you have never been inside your laptop, then you don?t know what to expect.
3) Visual overview and time to get to know your laptop. This one is what we consider an important step, but it can easily be missed.. Before are ready to disassemble a laptop, we always look at every single screw hole, removable piece and potential issues. It's just a practice that we perform to help me remember where the nooks and corners are. Take about 5-10 minutes to sit down and rotate the laptop around and look at it in more detail.
Time to get started?
4) Remove the external devices. By external devices, this means the Hard Drive, Battery, PCMCIA devices if you have any, etc. When you remove these devices, you will see screws in new places and it will obviously make it easier to access the laptop when disassembly occurs. The CD ROM from a laptop, most of the time, cannot be removed at this point. When you start removing screws, it may be easier to remove the CDROM later but not in the beginning.
5) Disassembly and documentation of your steps. This is where the paper and pencil come in. The most important tactic you need to perform during the disassembly process is the documentation. We cannot emphasize enough the need to document where every single screw location and size.
The most general place to start disassembly is on the bottom of the laptop. It has the most accessible screws. Generally what you want to do is draw on a piece of paper a rough diagram of one laptop. Draw one side of the laptop per page. On the diagram, label where screws are located on the laptop. Be as descriptive as possible about the location of the screws and their location.
When you remove screws, use the tape to stick them near the hole where they came from. In case the tape fails, the diagram you draw will assist you in putting them back where they belong. Document the order in which pieces are removed. Another solution is to collect all the screws from a section, tape them in a little bundle and stick them in a notable location.
Some laptops have only 2-3 sizes of different screws. There are many laptops that have many different sized screws. Take the time and document where each screw comes from. IBM Thinkpads are nice. They actually have a sticker that shows the label of screws and screw sizes. It comes in handy. Some Toshiba's also have a label next to screw holes and give you unique identifiers.
Once again, it's essential that you document each step you take during the disassembly of the laptop!
6) Handle with care. The Plate connector beneath the LCD is the most fragile piece of the laptop disassembly. That's why we gave it it?s own mini-section.
It?s the most fragile because if you force to plate too hard, you will snap or damage it. Some models have it just tied down by a few screws underneath the laptop. Most models have a snap action to it. It comes in handy to use a very thin flat head screw driver to probe the plate. If the screw driver bends too much, then it's time to probe in a different section. Please be cautious when doing this. A good place to probe is on the hinges where the plate overlaps next to the LCD hinge. When you start pulling up on the hinge from the corners, it will start exposing the parts underneath it.
(Note: The LCD display will not have to be disassembled fully. Just the cord and hinges can be removed alone. You do not have to get into the insides of the LCD.)
7) Motherboard access review. You've disassembled the laptop and you have the motherboard in your hands. Look at the dc jack and it?s connection to the motherboard. One issue we see with dc jack failure is cold soldering or failure in the solder itself. If there is not damage to the dc jack, the jack can be repaired by re-soldering the current dc jack in place. Some of the time, the dc jack itself is damaged and needs to be replaced.
8 ) Replace / Repair the laptop dc jack. If the dc jack needs to be replaced, use your soldering iron to heat up the solder from the dc jack and remove the old jack. If you have a dc jack with hooks or curves in the connector, good luck. We know how difficult it is when removing this type of dc jack, but with some patience and persistence, it can be done. When the dc jack is removed, clean the area (pin holes); then solder in the new dc jack into it's slot.
Warning: Some motherboards have very thin rings around the dc jack connectors themselves. The older Sony Vaio laptops have them. If you heat the solder too hot or too long, these rings come off. When that happens, you might as well call it game over. These rings connect the dc jack to the motherboard using extremely thin connections. The rings are vital to the dc jack connection to the motherboard. It is very easy to burn, or break the system board during this process.
When you get the new dc jack in the slot, you have the option of putting hot glue around the corners of the new dc jack. It?s an option to prevent the dc jack from getting bumped and pushed too much from the ac adapter. It's just added strength. Just don?t over-do it if you decide to put some on.
BE CAREFUL ABOUT THE CHIPS AND ELECTRONICS AROUND THE DC JACK!
People have destroyed chips on laptops because they were not careful when de-soldering and soldering. A sharper soldering iron is a better tool than a blunt rounded soldering iron.
9) Test your continuity. It sounds impossible, but you can test to make sure that you connected your dc jack correctly. Most volt meters have a continuity checker on them. Check to make sure the grounded section of the dc jack properly grounds, and if possible, check to ensure that the positive pin on the dc jack is properly connected to the motherboard. You can do this by touching some of the diodes on the motherboard close to the jack. You will know if it registers.
10) Reassembly with a little faith. This is the moment of truth. If you documented your disassembly well, then it will be your road map to reassembling the laptop. Start reassembling the laptop in the reverse order in which you disassembled it. Make sure you plug in every little cord, and ribbon back into your laptop. Disassembling the laptop again because you forgot a wire or ribbon is just annoying to the max.
11) Testing the laptop. Test the battery first to make sure that the laptop turns on without the dc jack. There have been a few situations where people have worked on their laptop and it didn?t turn on after they reassembled it. This is unfortunate, but it does happen. Sometimes you damage something during the whole process, but with caution it can be avoided.
Once you verified the laptop turns on with battery, then go ahead and plug in the dc jack. First sign it works is the ?Battery charging? light turns on and you know you have a successful replacement. Another final test is to power down the unit, remove the battery, and see if the unit powers on with just the power cord.
At this point you can turn on the laptop and your job is complete. If your laptop doesn?t turn on .. well.. go back to step 4 and 5 and go from there. It can happen, but we haven?t seen it too often unless there are more problems with the laptop than originally thought.
This is the Hp Dv 6000 with blank screen display
White vertical lines on the screen
This is the Nvidia gpu chip on the motherboard
You must sprade flux around the eage of the chip
Now position on the reball machine for chip removal
The chip has be removed from the motherboard
Clean and add the new balls to the chip
Send the chip back to the reball machine for re-soldering
Allow the motherboard to cool down before turning it on
Operation Completed Successfully